I am a native in this world And think in it as a native thinks
Sunday, April 19, 2015
Sunday bird blogging
A hooded crow in a Tehran park.
I saw a few of these in Istanbul, but they were everywhere in Tehran -- there was even a pair nesting in a tree outside my hotel room window.
We flew to Kerman, in southeastern Iran, last night. Our flight was delayed, so fortunately the airport was an educational experience on its own. Men and women have to go through security separately, and we women were patted down by a female agent, while the only man in our group just had to show his boarding pass. There was a “encase your luggage in layers of plastic wrap” service like the one in South Africa, a few shops with limited offerings, and a woman behind a small table, who was offering blood sugar tests, while also selling sessions in vibrating “massage” chairs. She got quite upset with us as she thought our luggage cart was blocking access to her (empty) chairs.
The strangest, and most unnerving, sight was several woman who were completely veiled. We're used to women in chadors at this point, but these women had their faces completely covered, without so much as a slit or a piece of mesh to look through. (I think they were probably Arab, judging by the way their husbands were dressed.) I couldn't help staring at them, but there was no way to tell if they looked back. They glided over the floor, faceless, limbless, like the dementors in the Harry Potter movies.
I have to figure out a new way to handle blogging on the road. I still have several draft entries for Tehran I need to finish, and there's little chance I can go through the hundreds of pictures I'm taking and say anything meaningful about them when our days are so full.
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2015
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April
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- Final encounter
- Khaju Bridge
- More random things
- Random things I saw in Isfahan
- Back to reality
- One more
- Two squinches
- Let there be light
- Mihrab
- A ceiling
- Arches
- Jameh Mosque
- The altar
- Armenian church
- Last day
- The Bridges of Isfahan County
- Okay, but this is a little creepy
- Where does paisley come from?
- Abstract scaffolding
- Kufic
- Prayer rugs
- Color coordination
- A little of both
- This is the conundrum
- A few more carpets
- How to buy a Persian carpet
- Magic carpets
- In which I elect not to take the stairs
- Artists at work
- Peacock tail
- Isfahan
- Oops
- You say you want a revolution
- Another kind of ruin
- A few more
- More views chez Darius
- What's for dinner
- Palace of Darius
- A gaze blank and pitiless as the sun
- Persepolis
- A word about the food
- Encounters in the Eram Garden
- The squinchiest squinch if ever a squinch there was
- Pink Mosque
- Playing dress up
- Nightingales
- Random things I saw in Shiraz
- Let's see what Hafez has to say about that
- Of course not everyone is a fan
- One big cultural difference
- Hafez
- Splish splash
- Juxtaposition
- Reflections
- Shiraz
- Tourism
- Still, not everyone wants to have their picture taken
- A misunderstanding
- It was apparently Bring Your Baby to Naqsh-e Rosta...
- Mystery cube
- Location, location, location
- Sad stories of the death of kings
- More ruins
- Pasargadae
- Rest stop
- Dust
- Portraits
- Inside the temple
- The Fire Temple of Taft, continued
- Indiana Jones and the Fire Temple of Taft
- I hear you knockin'
- Around the towers
- Towers of Silence
- What a difference a T makes
- Farvahar
- Fire Temple
- Windcatchers
- Portrait
- Yazd
- It's not a caravanserai, but...
- In which I'm grateful not to be Marco Polo
- Watchdog
- Inside
- The courtyard
- Caravanserai
- The road to Yazd
- More of the mosque
- Kerman
- Sunday bird blogging
- Starbucks comes to Tehran
- Finally, something I don't like
- For example
- A hodgepodge of the rare and precious
- Geometries
- Urban poetry
- My Iranian fan club continues to grow
- Ceramics
- Also from Persepolis
- Centuries of priceless treasure
- Traffic
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