Before being declared a national park, this was the private game reserve of Zambia's president. Because it is so remote -- you can only fly in or come by boat -- it is still virtually pristine wilderness.
The roads that do exist are deeply rutted and often very steep -- when the driver says "Hold on!" you'd better listen -- punctuated by deep slippery rain puddles and one small river. You need a really sturdy four-wheel drive vehicle to come here.
Zimbabwe is just on the other side of the Zambezi, and the earth is that brilliant ochre again. It gives the elephants a nice reddish glow after their mud baths.
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