And that was after successfully locating Santa Maria della et Cetera on the tenth or eleventh try. At first I was just grateful that the church offered a cool, shady place to sit down, because the Titian "Assumption" altarpiece I had made such an effort to see is just awful. I hated it. Hated it. The virgin looks like a teenage girl on a scary ride at Great Adventure. (I didn't bother to try to sneak a photo; if you're curious you can see it here.)
But there is a Bellini Madonna in a side chapel that was more than worth all the aggravation. This small sneaked photo doesn't do it justice, but I can't find a better version online.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ19V51k6tqWRAHdWI0Xn3mxVKPnOZOb18VdvHNdkj6pwbYjIq0UFehElksSvGSrYVdivs2eFFemxYkCDB_K2JCPt9zIP5e5ARtXjJSXKnPHvtmtMurmX4KzGfbh5uWDHQxYMB3b_ndOk/s400/Bellini+madonna+at+the+Frari.jpg)
The Rialto was so ridiculously crowded that I couldn't get out of there fast enough, but I did take a break sitting on steps like those in the photo above (note to co-workers: without falling in the Grand Canal.)
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