Campo Santa Margherita is the flip side of Piazza San Marco: no great monuments, no high-priced boutiques, and there are far more Venetians than tourists.
It was close to my hotel on the map, so of course it took me almost an hour to find it, as one promising street after another dead-ended at a canal, and I took an unexpected tour of parts of Dorsoduro that didn't look remotely Venetian, with the kind of drab apartment blocks you can see in any city in the world.
But I found it eventually, and I spent the early evening wandering around, sitting on one bench and then another, and buying a hazelnut gelato that was so obscenely delicious I immediately started calculating how long before I could decently go back for another.
As always, click to enlarge.
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