I ate cod pan-fried, on Caesar salad, in chowder, in fishcakes, deep-fried with chips, boiled with hardtack in the unexpectedly delicious fish and brewis, and, yes, au gratin.
Cod fishing still goes on in international waters, and there's a small fishery off Newfoundland's southern coast, so the moratorium doesn't mean you can't still eat cod in Newfoundland; on the contrary, it's hard not to.
There are a lot of high-end restaurants in St. John's that are creating new versions of traditional dishes and coming up with new ways to use ingredients like salt beef and partridgeberries. The food I ate wasn't fancy, but it was all delicious -- fish, and root vegetables, and berry crumbles. The big surprise was how tasty the dishes made with dried salt cod were -- as good as, if not better, than the fresh fish.