Speaking of souvenirs….

Who wouldn't want a nice crown?

Eminönü

This gives you a sense of the crowds and chaos along the waterfront at Eminönü -- tourist boats share the space with commuter ferries; it's a hub for buses and trams as well. There are vendors selling roasted chestnuts and ears of corn, and Turkish bread shaped like pretzels, along with the usual cheap souvenirs.

I suspect this may be a tourist trap

After the tranquillity at my hotel, and the quiet ride across the Bosphorus, Eminönü was a shock. There was no doubt that this was Istanbul, with crowds of tourists and natives jockeying their ways through the crowded streets, which angled and curved in unexpected ways like any old city but had deplorably few signs, so I was seldom sure which street I was actually on. There were cafes, and street vendors selling fresh pomegranate juice, and souvenir shops crammed in among stores selling expensive leather bags.

It was wonderful, in every sense of the word.

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