Why oh why do I love Paris? That sky for one thing, and the way it's so strangely quiet in the Tuileries that you can literally hear a leaf fall. It's not silent: there's carousel music and children laughing and intense fashionistas ducking out of the show tents to scream Italian into their cell phones and the drone of traffic on the other side of the wall. But somehow it all fades into a pleasant background white noise and you can hear your fingers slide on paper as you turn the page of your book, and the creak of the bench as you shift your weight, and the soft tap, tap, tap of leaves falling to the ground.
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